Maharashtra with M. F. Husain

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Maharashtra with M. F. Husain

Portraying India

Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit

Maqbool Fida Husain, New Delhi, India, 1981. Getty Images / Sondeep Shanka

In this edition, we travel to Maharashtra looking at the work of one of the finest modern Indian artist, M.F. Husain.
Maqbool Fida (M.F.) Husain, a wanderer, lifelong lover of spectacles and performance, admirer of Ghalib, devotee of words and lines, is one of the most recognisable figures in Indian modern art. He painted with the sheer joy of celebrating life with his works being iconic; his vivid, bold strokes unmistakable. He had this rare ability to forge a connection between east and west, working with Indian symbolism and imagery to develop a new vocabulary with influences from the aesthetics of European modernism.
His fascination with the country is evident in his representation of its people, its culture, its epics. He was simply a man living in the 20th century world, rooted in India but reaching far beyond any single culture or country. A vision born of conflict, expansive enough to hold the world in it. M.F. Husain attempted to bring the world into India, and take India to the world.
A City and a Canvas

With humble beginnings in Pandharpur, a pilgrim town on the banks of the Bhima river in Maharashtra, M.F. Husain grew up largely in the care of his grandfather in Indore. He became a beam of light for his grandson whose lantern and umbrella often resurfaced in M.F. Husain’s paintings later. While Pandharpur evokes memories of the age of innocence for the avant-garde painter, time spent in Indore was an age of revelations and growing maturity. Whenever he got a chance, he would carry his painting gear out to the surrounding countryside to paint the landscape. In one such trip in 1932, he acquired an admirer, N.S. Bendre, the renowned painter, who encouraged him to join the Indore School of Art. This is where he discovered that his paintbrushes could sing on the blank canvas, but didn’t see the course through when he found that he could do what the final year students were doing.

In 1937, he arrived in Bombay. He married here and lived in the same building for 18 years. A self-taught artist, he worked for many years as a sign painter announcing the glories of Bombay Cinema and in 1941, started making toys and furniture designs. These early jobs gave his hand a bold, public style. He used these pop styles created for cinema billboards for his satirical paintings of contemporary society. By 1947, he joined the Progressive Artists’ Group, embracing a new secular language of Indian modernism.

The Picasso of India

Untitled (Gram Yatra); sourced from Christie’s.

On the right-hand side of the canvas a farmer extends his hand beyond his picture plane, physically and metaphorically holding up the land around him. Women also play a central role in the painting, symbolising creation and renewal of the newly independent country

M.F. Husain rejected the idea of formal art schools and rather taking inspiration from lived experiences. He talks about how in the 1950s he travelled through villages and cities, absorbing patterns from painted walls, wedding courtyards and street festivals. He painted immediately and intuitively, translating what he saw into line and colour without delay. His language translated India’s composite culture into a rich mosaic of colours. On his canvas, the world was simultaneously real, mythical and symbolic. M.F. Husain’s art reflected the world around him, his experiences and his memories of people and places. He often set aside the “isms” of painting, preferring a “child-like” freedom of making.

Much of his subject matter comes directly from Indian life and myth. He painted Indian gods, dancers, farmers and horses again and again. He would say, “My horses, like lightning, cut across many horizon”. His obsession with horses started with the childhood fascination with the paper horses used during Muharram processions. His series on Mother Teresa explored personal themes of the idealised motherhood he lost as an infant. He has painted women in many dimensions: women as Shakti (power), women as Prithvi (Earth), as Prakriti (nature); the all-embracing energy.

The artist moved between mediums. Working on canvas, making films, writing poetry, staging installations and even assembling objects. “Painting is prayer for me,” he said, a state in which he switched off from the rest of the world. In 1967, his first film, Through the Eyes of a Painter, won the Golden Bear at Berlin. He also created art–in–education projects: in 1968 he painted a Ramayana series in an attempt to connect with the people of India, even taking the canvases on a national tour. His 1971 Mahabharata series did something similar, making epics visual and accessible to all. The camera is the painter’s eye and our guide, focusing on the variety of textures in the landscape.

‘Krishna Gopala’; 1995
Untitled (Five Horses)
Untitled (Husain’s Family); 1997

“Send me a snow clad sheet of sky bearing no scar. When I paint, hold the sky in your hands as the stretch of my canvas is unknown to me.”

Beyond the Studio
M.F. Husain made a portrait of his family and captured it in frame; The Zafar Ansari Museum of Archives

M.F. Husain was a lover of cities for the city to him represents people, human complexities, and the outcome of human efforts. When it came to cinema, he was highly inspired by Satyajit ray and his portrayal of “essence of the Indian”. A lover of cities, from Mumbai’s alleys to the ghats of Banaras, he was constantly on the move. The National Art Gallery notes he described himself as “a wanderer, a nomad with a brush”. He embraced cinema, music and literature as extensions of his art, and remained engaged with family and community. He enjoyed cooking meals and celebrating birthdays at home, and took pride in being the patriarch of a creative family.

Over decades, major galleries and public collections (including Delhi’s NGMA) acquired his paintings. A number of landmark works, like his 14-foot canvas Zameen (Earth) remain on view at Christie’s Gallery in New York. In recognition of his art, the Indian government awarded him the Padma Shri (1966), Padma Bhushan (1973) and Padma Vibhushan (1991). He passed away in London in 2011 at age 95. Throughout his life, M.F. Husain absorbed the traditions of India, its religions, its various cultures, and restating them in ways to which people responded. In a sense, he lived out his own byword: India itself was a “museum without walls”, and he painted it open. M.F. Husain left behind some 60,000 works of art, each one a fragment of that restless, joyful vision.

Discovering Maharashtra
If one colour holds Maharashtra together, it is green. The state sits across the Deccan plateau, opening to the Arabian Sea in the west and rising into the forested ridges of the Western Ghats. It is anchored by Mumbai, a city that drives dreams into reality and is home to Hindi cinema. The state carries a long artistic and historical presence, seen in sites like the Ajanta Caves and Ellora Caves, known for their early paintings and rock-cut architecture. While hill forts across the Western Ghats recall the Maratha period. Beyond this, cities like Pune and Nashik are hubs for education and religious practices, while the Konkan coast remains tied to fishing and rice cultivation. Malvani cuisine and Marathi culture remains central to how the state expresses itself.
Explore the Art of Weaving in Solapur
Solapur lies in southeastern Maharashtra, known for its cotton blankets and towels with jacquard weaving used for patterned designs. The textile is produced across small units and power looms. Walk inside one such workshop or a residential unit to see the process up close. You can reach here by taking a direct train from Mumbai or take the road via Pune.
Savour the Delicacies of Konkan Coast
Primarily inhabited by fishers and farmers, the cuisines of the Konkan coast have been influenced by three things: fish, coconut and rice. In the town of Malvan, relish a coastal meal of fish curry, fried seafood, rice, and solkadhi, a light drink made from kokum and coconut milk, served alongside the meal. The pallet has plenty of chillies balanced by sour kokum fruit and also tamarind.
Learn the Stories Behind Warli Art
In Dahanu, the Warli community continues to practice an ancient art form featuring simple geometric shapes to depict agrarian life and nature. Traditionally, women paint these figures using rice paste on red mud walls during weddings and rituals. Encounter such walls on a walk in Warli villages.
A Scenic Adventure to Tikona Fort
The climb to Tikona Fort begins from Tikona village and rises steadily through fields before turning into a narrow trail. Just before the top, you pass small cave temples and a water pond. The views from the summit are spectacular, as you spot the Pawna dam and nearby forts with Pawana Lake in middle.
Recommendations for Further Exploration

To Watch
Through the Eyes of a Painter – an experimental film by M.F. Husain
A Painter of Our Time by Films Division

At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling through the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world. Where should we go today?