Lucknow with Begum Akhtar

Blog

Lucknow with Begum Akhtar

Portraying India

Perceptions of India, inspired by the lives of those who embody its most authentic spirit
In this edition, we travel to Lucknow with Begum Akhtar, one of the most influential voices in the history of the ghazal.
Lucknow has always been synonymous with tehzeeb (etiquette), poetry, and music. The city’s artistic excellence shaped daily life and defined its identity. No figure embodies this cultural richness quite like Begum Akhtar. She became inseparable from Lucknow, her voice echoing through its mehfils (intimate musical gatherings) and lanes for decades. She absorbed the city’s Urdu poetry, aesthetics, and emotional depth, transforming them into music that defined an era.
Begum Akhtar stands as one of the most influential voices in Hindustani music, shaping how ghazal (Urdu poetic and musical form), thumri (North Indian semi-classical vocal style), and dadra (light classical vocal form) were heard, understood, and felt. Her voice carried personal sorrow, restraint, and dignity. Through recordings, radio, and live performances, she shaped musical taste across North India and influenced generations of poets and singers.
Years of Musical Grounding
Young Begum Akhtar with her mother

Born Akhtaribai Faizabadi in 1914 in present-day Uttar Pradesh, Begum Akhtar became one of the most iconic voices in Hindustani classical music, earning the title “Mallika-e-Ghazal” (Queen of Ghazals). Her father, a lawyer, distanced himself from the family, and she was raised primarily by her mother, Mushtari Sahiba, who recognised her daughter’s musical talent early on. Determined to secure a future through music, her mother moved to Patna and later to Calcutta, seeking out the finest teachers to nurture it. She was barely seven when she was captivated by the music of Chandra Bai, an artist attached to a touring theatre group.

She was sent to train under Ustad Imdad Khan, the great sarangi exponent from Patna, and later under Ata Mohammed Khan of Patiala. As was the practice in those days, the Ustad (teacher) and Shagird (disciple) would live under the same roof and train for hours; training rituals used to start early in the morning and months would pass practicing a single note or a single aalap. According to Begum Akhtar, she trained like classical male singers, putting in a lot of practice time each day, first with exercises to improve her lower voice range, then progressing to more difficult vocal exercises. Her favourite raag was Gunkali, that evokes poignancy and pain.

The Voice of Lucknow

Begum Akhtar moved to Lucknow’s Cheena Bazaar in 1934, and the city became inseparable from her identity. She embodied Lucknow’s medieval high culture in her music, verses, voice, habits, and personal style. Her singing created visions of what made Lucknow’s culture popular and admirable. From a young age, she performed publicly, first as a child singer on the stage and later in mehfils and theatre. Her first public performance was at the age of fifteen in Calcutta in 1934, where Sarojini Naidu, a revered poet appreciated her singing. She evolved a distinct style of vocal genres thumri and dadra, characterized by a break in her voice during high-pitched notes. Begum Akhtar chose her ghazals carefully, developing her own musical settings for poems that touched her heart deeply. She became a mediator and transmitter of Urdu verse. She also sang in multiple languages including Bhojpuri, Awadhi, Urdu, Bengali and Gujarati.

Her student noted that she had “a pain in her voice” – an indescribable quality that made her interpretations deeply moving. As a spontaneous performer, she sang whatever audiences requested. She would often say, “I have always tried to pay back the love that I have received through music.” She became a regular performer on All India Radio, where her voice reached millions. She toured internationally as part of cultural delegations to Pakistan (1961), Afghanistan (1961), and USSR (1963). Her performances drew enthusiastic responses, particularly her famous dadra “Hamri atariya pe aao sanwariya.”

She acted in several films in the 1930s and early 1940s. However, inspired by great musicians like Gauhar Jaan and Malka Jaan, she chose Indian classical music over the film world. Even though she had stopped appearing on screen by then, the legendary Satyajit Ray persuaded her to play a cameo in Jalsaghar (1958).

“Ghazal, that death-sustaining widow, sobs in dingy archives, hooked to you. She wears her grief, a moon-soaked white, corners the sky into disbelief."

The Voices She Inspired
With nearly four hundred songs to her credit, she transformed the ghazal from an elite literary form into a powerful musical genre. The ghazals she sang touched such heights of fame that writers and poets of the time, wanted her to compose and sing their ghazals in her inimitable style. Her renditions brought contemporary poets to prominence while adding new dimensions to classical poetry. Great musicians like Pandit Jasraj took to singing because of the magic of her voice; even Pandit Hari Prasad Chaurasia apparently was besotted with her as a child! The sitar maestro Pandit Ravi Shankar dedicated his ‘Sindhi Bhairavi’ to Begum Akhtar. Poet Kaifi Azmi confessed he went back to reading and writing ghazals to get closer to Begum Akhtar.

She was awarded the Padma Shri in 1967 and received the Sangeet Natak Akademi Award for vocal music in 1972. She was posthumously awarded the Padma Bhushan by the Government of India. At the age of 60, during her last concert in Ahmedabad in 1974, Begum Akhtar, dissatisfied with her voice during the performance, put so much stress on herself while raising the pitch that she fell ill. She breathed her last in the arms of her friend.

Her grave lies next to her mother in the bylanes of Lucknow, at her ancestral home. Begum Akhtar rests in musical eternity, lovingly shaded by a lush tree that blossoms in the month of October and wraps the entire mausoleum with its lingering essence.

Discovering Lucknow

Lucknow is a city rich in history, culture, and heritage. Once the seat of the Nawabs of Awadh, it carries a refined cultural legacy rooted in Urdu literature, classical music, and culinary traditions. Courtyards, Imambaras, and old neighbourhoods still reflect a way of life built around conversation and patronage of the arts. At the same time, modern Lucknow functions as a city that’s constantly adapting and negotiating its past. From the Urdu couplets exchanged in chai shops to the rhythm of evening mehfils, the city invites you to slow down and absorb its refined essence.
Join a Classical Music Gathering
Evening mehfils at Bhartendu Natya Akademi and Sangeet Natak Akademi feature dedicated musicians performing ghazals and ragas. You’ll sit on the floor as the tabla and sarangi establish their rhythm. When a phrase lands with particular beauty, hear the room echo with: “wah wah.”
Explore the Labyrinth Palace
The Bara Imambara hosts a maze of passages called the Bhulbhulaiya. Built without beams, the arched hall stands as one of the largest unsupported constructions. The narrow corridors wind upward to the rooftop, offering views across the city, revealing Asaf-ud-Daula’s architectural vision.
Taste Lucknow’s Melt-in-Mouth Kebabs
The aroma of sizzling mince and ghee-laced flatbread leads you into a city shaped by royal Nawabi kitchens. The famed Galouti Kebab sizzle in an aromatic blend of spices in the lanes of Aminabad where “Tunday Kababi” has been perfecting the kebabs since 1905.
Meet the Embroiderers
The old city neighbourhoods shelter Chikankari workshops where artisans sit with white fabric stretched across their laps. Their needles move through cotton, creating patterns so delicate called “shadow work.” The craft dates back to Mughal courts and requires immense patience and precision.

At Tushita, we marvel at India with you. After 45 years of travelling the country, we’re still enamoured by its beauty every day. From Ladakh, where Tushita was anointed by a Buddhist monk in 1977, to Tamil Nadu, where we worked with locals to showcase one of the oldest cultures in the world, we are partners in your journey to discover our part of the world.

Where should we go today?